Saturday, May 25, 2019

Bergen Day 3

We had originally planned to visit the royal gardens, take in a tour and concert at the Edvard Greig museum (Norway's most famous composer) and then drive to the westernmost part of Bergen in the afternoon.  However, we found a map with scenic driving tours around Bergen and one described a drive to Gulatinget, the original Viking parliament, in Eivindvik, about an hour away. It recommended a seafood restaurant for lunch - in Skjerjehamn.  We'd pass along a couple fjiords along the way, so we decided to opt for this trip instead.  I think it turned out to be the right call, as you will see!

We drove north from Bergen, leaving around 9:30am, under an overcast sky but with sunny breaks. 

The scenery was out of this world...sometimes pretty close to the tree line other times like the Swiss Alps. Many pristine lakes, fjords, pine forests.



We took a ferry across a fjiord  - drove up just as it started loading. The crossing took about 20 minutes and after leaving the




ferry we followed a single paved road that led to the recommended seafood restaurant, that turned into a single unpaved road, for about 10 miles.

I had just said to  Deb I couldn't imagine that there would be a restaurant of any description way out here when we came upon a couple dozen parked cars and some buildings.  It turned out to be a fishing cove operated by a major salmon (and fjiord trout) farming operation.  There was a park explaining how ecologically responsible salmon farming was, and extolling the health benefits of salmon.  So we walked around the lovely park and admired the attractive cove.


A "modern" statue of the King overlooked the cove. Evidently it was supposed to be erected in Oslo but that was voted down.  Many places wanted it and this tiny spot won out.



At the end of the brief trail around the cove we saw across a bridge a group of people entering what looked like a restaurant.  So off we went!  As we approached we saw a guy grilling lovely looking salmon outside so we were definitely encouraged.  Entering the restaurant there was a gathering of 30-40 people so we asked at the bar if this were a private event.  The bartender said no, everyone was welcome, and that it was 'national salmon day'!!  There would be a choir sing a couple songs, followed by some samples of salmon afterward.  Jackpot!!  We listened to the choir and ate our fill of salmon prepared four ways = gravelox (or salt cured), gravelox in veggies; gravelox on baguettes, and finally grilled salmon.  Needless to say, it was all absolutely delicious.



So lunch was an amazing combination of local celebration and delicious salmon, all courtesy of the salmon farming operation!!


We left the party as it was in full swing to travel to Eivindvik and the Gulating park.  This was established 4 years ago to commemorate the first representative assembly in Norway - it functioned from 900-1300 AD.  Farmers, and essentially any man who could bear arms, could assemble at the Gulatinget to address the King over taxes, church or bridge construction, or to have grievances adjudicated.  This medieval assembly became the model for Norway's "Stortinget" (see above), which literally translated means "The Superior Thing"!  The principle of territorial representation was in evidence here well before it became institutionalized in the British parliament!  Another research project for Munroe.  Colloquially, this is known as the "Viking Parliament".  

To say that the day was filled with highlights is an understatement.  We picked up some groceries in Eivindvik and headed home - once again hitting the ferry just as it began loading. Another magical day is now winding down.

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